A working-class trattoria in the western suburb of Cenisia that has barely changed since it opened in the 1930s — paper tablecloths, a chalked menu, a few wooden chairs in a former dairy shop. The food is the canonical Piedmontese repertoire: vitello tonnato, anchovies in green sauce, agnolotti del plin in a pat of butter, bollito misto in winter, and a bonet for dessert.
No reservations, no English, and a half-hour wait if you arrive after eight. It is the trattoria that everyone in Turin sends visitors to when they want to prove the city still cooks the old way. Tram 16 from Porta Nuova.