A small wine bar and trattoria on Via San Francesco da Paola named after the Piedmontese national dish (vitello tonnato — "veal in tuna sauce" — translated jokingly into French). Eight or nine tables, an obsessive wine list of small Piedmontese producers, and a daily-changing menu of half a dozen dishes that runs from raw beef and vitello tonnato to braised cheek and bonet for dessert.
The owners pour generous samples while you eat. Easy to fall into a long lunch here; book ahead for evenings.