Palermo has one of the strongest food cultures in Italy, rooted in Arab, Spanish, and Sicilian traditions. The street food is the thing to start with: arancine (rice balls, stuffed with ragù or butter and ham), panelle (chickpea fritters in a sesame roll), sfincione (thick pizza with onion and anchovy), and stigghiola (grilled lamb intestines) from the Ballarò and Capo markets. Pasta con le sarde — with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, raisins, and saffron — is the signature first course. Cassata and cannoli are everywhere but quality varies sharply; seek out the serious pasticcerie.
Restaurants are concentrated in the Kalsa district and around the Vucciria market. Most serious dining happens late — don't arrive before 20:00.