A long-established trattoria that manages to feel genuinely local despite the resort setting. The menu is Versilian to the core: fish soup (cacciucco in its northern Tuscan variant), spaghetti alle vongole, fried anchovies, and the regional pasta tordelli al ragù. Portions are generous, prices are more moderate than the town's grander restaurants, and the atmosphere is relaxed. Particularly good for a long lunch after the Wednesday market. Via Carducci; closed Tuesday.