Santa Maria della Spina

Address Lungarno Gambacorti, 56126 Pisa

This is the building everyone photographs from the opposite bank of the Arno, a tiny pink-and-white Gothic chapel perched at the river's edge like a marble reliquary. Built between 1230 and 1325, it was originally an oratory at the riverside, but in 1871 it was dismantled and reassembled a metre higher to protect it from flooding. The reconstruction was not entirely faithful and historians still grumble.

The interior is plain by comparison — a single rectangular room — but it sometimes holds small exhibitions, and the play of light through the rose window is worth a minute. Walk past it after dark when the marble glows under uplighting and the river is empty. It is the best small monument in Pisa.

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A story
The church takes its name from the spina — the thorn from Christ's crown of thorns — that a Pisan merchant brought back from the East and donated in 1333. The relic moved out long ago, but the church is one of the most perfect small Gothic buildings in Italy, an octagonal jewel box of pink and white marble crusted with pinnacles, tabernacles, and statuary.

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