Mestre is the mainland half of Venice -- a working Italian city where locals actually live and go about their business, rather than a museum piece preserved in amber. It sits just across the Liberty Bridge from the lagoon, and most visitors pass through without a second glance. That is a mistake.
The heart of town is Piazza Ferretto, a handsome pedestrian square lined with cafes and shops, anchored by a medieval watchtower dating to 1108. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, rebuilt in the 1700s, stands nearby. It is not Venice, and it does not try to be. What Mestre offers is something Venice cannot: normal Italian life at normal Italian prices.
Mestre makes a smart base for exploring the Veneto. Hotels cost a fraction of what you would pay on the lagoon, the train to Venice's Santa Lucia station takes ten minutes, and the restaurant scene caters to residents rather than tourists. Parco San Giuliano, the big park by the bridge, gives you a panoramic view of the Venice skyline and hosts summer concerts. Parco Bissuola has sports facilities and swimming pools for when you need a break from sightseeing.
The city is not glamorous and it does not pretend to be. But if you want to eat well, sleep affordably, and reach Venice in minutes, Mestre is hard to beat.