The Sørlandet coast east and west of Kristiansand is one of the great Norwegian summer landscapes — white wooden towns, low rocky islands, narrow sounds full of sailing boats. Lillesand, thirty minutes north-east, is the closest of the coastal villages and the prettiest. Mandal, an hour west, has a stronger fishing town feel and the country's best sand beach at Sjøsanden. Further west, Lindesnes and the southernmost lighthouse in mainland Norway make a long but rewarding day.