The old village of Benalmádena, perched in the hills about 280 metres above the coast, is the historic heart of the municipality and a relief from the resort strip below. Narrow whitewashed streets climb to the Plaza de España, where flower boxes and a small fountain make for a properly Andalusian square.
The pueblo has a few small museums, a handful of family-run restaurants serving honest local food, and several miradores with sweeping views over the coast. It is best seen in the late afternoon, when the heat has gone out of the day and the white walls turn gold in the slanting light.