Huesca is a modest provincial capital sitting in the foothills of the Pyrenees, an easy stopover between Zaragoza and the mountain passes to the north. It's not a place most people put on their itinerary, but if you find yourself here you'll discover a well-preserved old town with real depth.
The Cathedral, begun in the 13th century and embellished for several hundred years afterward, anchors the historic centre. The Diocesan Museum next door holds altarpieces and murals rescued from churches that no longer exist. Nearby, the Plaza de la Universidad is fronted by handsome 16th-century university buildings that now house the city's main museum.
The Church of San Pedro el Viejo is arguably the most interesting stop: built on the site of an ancient temple, it contains the tombs of several Aragonese kings and has a Romanesque cloister that rewards a slow walk around. The Casino de Huesca, a fine 1905 Modernista building on the main square, rounds out the architectural sights.
Huesca works well as a base for day trips into the Pyrenees — the town is calm and reasonably priced, the old quarter takes no more than an afternoon to explore, and the surrounding countryside is worth the detour.