Church of Santa María de los Reyes

The great treasure of Laguardia and one of the finest pieces of Gothic sculpture in Spain. The church itself is 12th-century Romanesque, but the south porch — a deeply recessed Gothic doorway added in the 14th and 15th centuries — is something else entirely. Carved figures of apostles, saints, and the Virgin fill the archivolts and tympanum, and crucially they still wear their original medieval polychrome: rich blues, reds, and golds that most Gothic sculpture lost centuries ago to whitewash or weathering. The colours survived because the porch was sealed and forgotten behind a later wall, only rediscovered in the 19th century. A guided tour is required to see the interior; ask at the tourist office.

story: "The polychrome survived because the doorway was walled up during a later remodelling and lay hidden for centuries. When it was rediscovered in the 19th century, the medieval paint was found almost perfectly intact — a level of preservation almost unique in Iberian Gothic sculpture."

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