The tapas bars clustered around the streets behind the Catedral de Santa Ana are the most honest places to drink in Las Palmas. The format is straightforward: stand at the bar, order a glass of wine, and point at whatever is under the glass covers on the counter. Prices are set for locals, not visitors.
Malvasia is the grape to ask for — a white variety grown across the Canary Islands on volcanic soils that gives wines with bright acidity and an unusual mineral character. Some bars stock wines from the highland zones of Gran Canaria itself. Papas arrugadas, small wrinkled potatoes served with mojo rojo or mojo verde sauce, appear on nearly every counter and cost almost nothing.
The streets immediately east of the cathedral — Calle Espíritu Santo and the lanes off it — have the highest concentration of traditional bars. The area is quiet in the middle of the day and comes alive from around seven in the evening.