The bar scene in Las Palmas divides neatly between two worlds. Along the Paseo de Las Canteras, the three-kilometre promenade backing the city's main beach, terraced bars and kiosks stay busy from morning coffee to late-night drinks — this is where locals bring the dog, argue about football, and watch the Atlantic light change. The clientele is almost entirely Canarian, not tourist.
Vegueta, the old quarter, offers something different: narrow streets lined with traditional tapas bars where a glass of local malvasia wine costs less than a euro and the tapas are a matter of civic pride. The Canary Islands have their own wine culture, shaped by volcanic soils and Atlantic winds, and the white wines from the highlands can be excellent. Ask for vino de la tierra and see what arrives.
Craft beer has arrived in Las Palmas, with a handful of bars near the Puerto district stocking local breweries alongside the inevitable Tropical, the island's own lager. The area around Plaza de España is good for bar-hopping without a plan.