The cafes and bars around the Charco de San Ginés are where Arrecife slows down in the evening, with terraces facing the water and the small whitewashed houses on the far side. The Calle León y Castillo, the pedestrianized main shopping street, holds a string of older cafes and pastelerías.
Try a barraquito — the local layered coffee with condensed milk, espresso, foamed milk, lemon peel, cinnamon, and a shot of Licor 43 — at any of the older bars.