Arrecife is the capital of Lanzarote and where most of the island's population lives. It is a working town rather than a tourist resort, which means it has an authenticity that the beach towns lack. The waterfront promenade is pleasant, with views across to the Castillo de San Gabriel, a small fort on an islet connected by a stone bridge. The Charco de San Ginés, a tidal lagoon in the centre of town lined with fishing boats and whitewashed houses, is the most photogenic corner.
Most visitors pass through on the way from the airport to their resort, but Arrecife rewards a half-day stop. The International Museum of Contemporary Art, housed in the Castillo de San José and designed by César Manrique, has a good collection and a glass-walled restaurant overlooking the harbour. The Iglesia de San Ginés and the city's main beach at Playa del Reducto round out a half-day visit.