The Castillo de San José, on the cliff above the harbour about two kilometres from the city centre, is the most important sight in Arrecife. The 18th-century stone fort was converted by César Manrique in the 1970s into the International Museum of Contemporary Art (MIAC), with a collection that runs from Tàpies and Millares to Manrique himself.
The basement restaurant is the highlight even for non-diners. A long glass wall faces the Atlantic and the freighters moving in and out of the port, with Manrique's curved black stone interior framing the view. Allow about 90 minutes for the museum and a drink at the bar.