Almost everything worth doing in Cáceres is in or immediately adjacent to the old town, the Ciudad Monumental. The walled quarter is compact enough to walk in an hour but rich enough to occupy a full day — every alley contains something, and the light changes the place completely between morning and evening. Below the walls, the Plaza Mayor and the new city offer a more contemporary Spain: tapas bars, a serious contemporary art museum, and the everyday life of a provincial capital that happens to have one of the best-preserved medieval centres in Europe.