Praza do Campo is the main square inside the Roman walls — a long, asymmetric space that functions as the social centre of the old town. The square is surrounded by Galician stone buildings with arcaded ground floors, and the tapas bars around its perimeter are where the Lugo ritual of free tapas with every drink is most reliably observed. The custom is deeply ingrained here: order a glass of wine or a caña, and a generous portion of food arrives without being asked for.
The square hosts a small market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and on weekend evenings it fills with locals spanning three generations in the way that Galician plazas do. The nearby streets — Rúa da Cruz and Rúa Nova — are lined with more tapas bars and are equally worth exploring. This area of the old town, roughly between the Praza and the Cathedral, concentrates most of what makes Lugo worth an overnight rather than just a lunch stop.