The Plaza del Castillo is the heart of Pamplona — a large, sandstone-paved square that has served as marketplace, bullring, military parade ground, and public meeting point since the 16th century. Today it is lined with cafes and arcaded buildings, and the whole population seems to pass through it every evening.
The arcades on the east side shelter the Café Iruña, the city's most famous bar, open since 1888. The iron-and-glass interior is intact, the waiters wear white jackets, and the coffee is strong. It is not cheap, but this is where Pamplona has always done its serious talking. Sit outside in summer and watch the square fill as the sun goes down.