The Habana is the most famous café in Mexico City — opened in 1952, almost entirely unchanged since. Cigarette smoke once filled the long, narrow room; that part has gone, but the dark-wood booths, the tin coffee urns behind the counter, and the slow waiters remain. It served as a hangout for Mexican intellectuals, including Carlos Monsiváis and Roberto Bolaño, and as a meeting point for Cuban revolutionaries in exile.
The coffee is strong and the chilaquiles are good. The Habana works best for a slow weekday breakfast or as a recovery point after a heavy night. Open early until late, closed Sundays in summer.