El Huequito — "the little hole" — opened in 1959 in a doorway barely a metre wide on Calle Ayuntamiento, off the main drag of the Centro. The whole operation is the man on the trompo, the woman taking cash, and a counter you eat at standing up. It claims to have been the first taco al pastor stand in the city centre.
The pork is marinated with guajillo chillies, achiote, vinegar, and a closely guarded mix of spices; the tacos arrive on small soft tortillas with a slice of pineapple. They sell several thousand a day. A larger sit-down branch nearby on the corner of Bolívar has the same recipe but without the queue.