The area around the jardín de las Rosas and Portal Hidalgo has the highest concentration of cafes and bars, many occupying colonial buildings with interior courtyards. Students from the Universidad Michoacana keep the scene lively year-round. The city has a small but genuine mezcal culture — Michoacan produces its own styles, distinct from Oaxacan mezcal, and you'll find decent selections at the better bars near the centro.