Chillán

Ñuble capital and market city, rebuilt after the 1939 earthquake and tied to hot springs nearby.

Chillán is a mid-sized city in south-central Chile, the capital of Ñuble Region, known for two things: it was the birthplace of Bernardo O'Higgins, Chile's independence hero, and it is the gateway to the Termas de Chillán, one of Chile's best hot springs and ski resorts.

The city itself was largely rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1939 that killed some 24,000 people. It is functional rather than beautiful, but the Feria de Chillán — the large outdoor market — is one of the best in central Chile, selling produce, leather goods, woven textiles, and longaniza chillanejas, the local sausage that is famous across the country.

The Escuela México, a school built with Mexican aid after the earthquake, contains murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros and Xavier Guerrero — an unexpected piece of Mexican muralism in the Chilean countryside. The Termas de Chillán, about 80 kilometres east in the Andes, has excellent skiing in winter (June–September) and volcanic hot pools year-round. The Volcán Chillán is an active volcanic complex; hiking around it is spectacular and the terrain is like nothing else in the Chilean lake district.

Guide

Getting There

Chillán is 400 kilometres south of Santiago on the Pan-American Highway. By car the drive takes about four hours; by bus, the main companies (Turbus, Pullman Bus) run frequent services from Santiago's Alameda terminal and take around four to five hours. Trains also connect Chillán to Santiago — the Tren Sur service stops here and the journey takes about four hours. The station is close to the city centre.

General Bernardo O'Higgins Airport (IATA: YAI) serves Chillán but has limited scheduled service. Most visitors arrive by bus or car. The bus terminal is central and has connections south to Concepción, Los Ángeles, and Temuco, as well as north to Santiago.

Guide

Things to Do

Chillán has more to it than most travellers expect from a transit city. The Feria de Chillán is one of the best outdoor markets in central Chile and reason enough to stop. The Escuela México contains murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros and Xavier Guerrero — a genuinely surprising piece of Mexican muralism deep in the Chilean countryside. The Museo Claudio Arrau León commemorates the great Chilean pianist born here in 1903.

The main reason visitors come to the Chillán area is the Termas de Chillán, 80 kilometres east in the Andes. This resort complex combines volcanic hot pools, one of Chile's best ski areas (operating June–September), and spectacular mountain scenery. Volcán Chillán, an active volcanic complex near the resort, offers dramatic hiking in summer. The Cathedral of Chillán, a striking modernist structure built after the 1939 earthquake, is worth a look in the city centre.