Bahia de Caraquez

Quiet Ecuadorian coastal city on the Río Chone peninsula, rebuilt around an eco-city identity

Bahia de Caraquez sits on a narrow peninsula where the Rio Chone meets the Pacific, on Ecuador's central coast. It bills itself as an "eco-city" and has a cleaner, quieter feel than most Ecuadorian coastal towns — palm-lined streets, a waterfront malecon, and a relaxed pace. The town was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1998 and a subsequent El Niño flood, and the rebuilding effort led to the eco-city initiative.

The main reason to visit is the surrounding area. Chirije, about 30 kilometres south along the coast, is an archaeological and ecological reserve where pre-Columbian Bahia culture sites sit amid 238 hectares of dry tropical forest and unspoiled beaches. The Bahia culture (500 BC to AD 500) were seafaring merchants who traded shells and ornaments as far as Mexico and Chile. Isla Corazón, a mangrove island in the estuary, is home to one of Ecuador's largest frigate bird colonies and can be visited by boat. The waters around Bahia also offer dolphin watching year-round and humpback whales from June to October.

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Getting There

Bahia de Caraquez sits on a peninsula accessible by road via San Vicente on the north bank of the Rio Chone, connected to Bahia by a bridge. From Quito, the drive is about five hours via Portoviejo. From Guayaquil it's a similar distance by a different route.

The nearest airport is Los Perales (IATA: BHA), a small facility on the outskirts of town, with occasional domestic flights to Quito. The connections are infrequent and schedules change seasonally — check ahead. Buses connect Bahia to Portoviejo, Manta, Quito, and Guayaquil; the bus terminal is near the town centre. Manta, about an hour south, is the nearest city with a proper airport and broader connections.

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Things to Do in Bahia de Caraquez

Bahia de Caraquez is a quiet town best used as a base for the surrounding area. The malecon waterfront is the place to orient yourself in town. The main draws are the archaeological reserve at Chirije, the mangrove bird sanctuary of Isla Corazón, and the bay — which has good wildlife, including dolphins and, in season, humpback whales.

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When to Go

Bahia de Caraquez has two distinct seasons. The wet season runs from January to April, when temperatures are high and rain can be heavy — this was the period of the 1998 flood damage. The dry season runs from May to December and is the better time to visit: cooler temperatures, clear skies, and calmer seas for boat trips.

For whale watching, June to October is the prime season, when humpback whales are present in the Pacific waters nearby. The frigatebird colony on Isla Corazón is most spectacular during breeding season, roughly September to January.