Chivay is the first town in the Colca Valley when coming from Arequipa, sitting at about 3,700 metres. It is the main transport hub for the canyon, with plenty of hotels at generally low prices — no need to book ahead. Most travellers acclimatise here for a night before heading to Cruz del Condor or beyond.
The La Calera hot springs are the highlight. Separate baths for locals and tourists (the tourist section costs a few dollars) offer a magnificent soak with views over the terraced valley. Most tour groups arrive between 5 and 6 pm, so go earlier or later for a quieter experience. You can walk there or take a colectivo from the plaza.
The Sunday market on the plaza is worth catching if your schedule allows — it draws producers from across the valley with corn, potatoes, cheese, and textiles. Women from different villages wear distinctively embroidered hats that identify their community, a tradition going back to the Inca period.
Above the town, the apachetas on the high-altitude plateau are living ritual cairns at nearly 5,000 metres, used by Andean travellers for centuries. South of town, the archaeological site of Uskallaqta preserves pre-Inca stone tombs and ruins with views over the canyon.
To reach Cruz del Condor, catch any bus heading to Cabanaconde from the bus terminal — the condor viewpoint is about two hours along the route, with Cabanaconde another hour beyond.