The main square sits a few blocks south of the cathedral, with the obligatory bronze Bolívar at its centre and a ring of benches under big shade trees. Around the edges are the city hall, the old Iglesia de la Concepción, and a handful of cafés where older men play dominos in the afternoon.
It is not a grand square by South American standards, but it is the most reliable spot to feel the rhythm of the city — busy at lunchtime, sleepy in the heat of the afternoon, lively again at dusk when families come out to walk.