Ndolé is the dish that defines Cameroonian cooking: bitter leaf — a mildly astringent green — slow-cooked with ground peanuts, crayfish, and usually beef or shrimp until the sauce becomes dark, rich, and deeply savoury. It is served with plantains, rice, or miondo (fermented cassava sticks), and a good version is one of the better things to eat in this part of Africa.
Several small restaurants around the town centre do ndolé as their main dish. The best versions are made in large pots that have been on the stove since morning, giving the sauce time to develop properly. Ask whether the ndolé is ready before ordering — freshly made is markedly better than reheated.