Accra's most prominent zongo — a Muslim migrant quarter — sits north of the city centre, a dense neighbourhood of migrants from northern Ghana, Burkina Faso, Niger, and across the Sahel who came south looking for work. The community has been here for generations now, and what started as a temporary encampment has become one of the most characterful parts of the city. The streets are narrow, the mosques are busy at prayer time, and the food is excellent and almost entirely unknown to tourists.
The street food scene here — suya (spiced grilled meat skewers), waakye (rice and beans with a range of spiced toppings), bean stew, fresh juices, and roasted plantain — is the best in Accra and a fraction of the price you'll pay anywhere in Osu. Come on a Saturday morning for waakye, when the sellers set up early and the crowds are good-natured. The neighbourhood has an undeserved reputation for trouble; daytime visits are fine with normal city awareness. Leave valuables at the hotel, take a local with you the first time if you can, and follow the food.