The El Glaoui Palace in the Fes el-Bali medina is a monument to both the magnificence and the moral compromises of the colonial period. Built in the early twentieth century for the family of Thami El Glaoui — the Pasha of Marrakesh who served as France's chief Moroccan collaborator — it is an extraordinary building: large rooms with carved plasterwork, zellige tile floors, painted cedar ceilings, and a series of courtyard gardens.
The palace has changed hands several times since independence and has fallen into a state of romantic ruin — sections are periodically open to visitors, others are occupied by families and artisans. Part of it has been converted into a workshop for traditional crafts. Visiting requires some persistence; knock at the gate and someone will usually show you around part of the building for a small tip.