Place Seffarine is one of the few actual squares in the labyrinth of Fes el-Bali, and the din of hammers on copper and brass bounces off its walls from morning to evening. Dozens of workshops ring the square, beating out trays, teapots, and lanterns much as they have since the Merinid period. A large mulberry tree stands in the middle, providing shade for the craftsmen taking breaks. The Al-Qarawiyyin library faces the square from one side.
It is a place that rewards a slow half hour. The metalworkers are not interested in tourists in any particular way — they have enough trade from the city's souks — which means you can watch the work without the aggressive hospitality of the more commercial tourist zones. The light in the late afternoon, filtering through the tree onto copper trays stacked against the walls, is exceptional.