Figuig

Remote eastern Moroccan oasis town made up of fortified ksour and extensive date palms.

If you are the adventurous type, the desert trip from Er-Rachidia to Figuig will blow your mind. It is a ten-hour journey through the isolated lands of eastern Morocco, dominated by spectacular red mountains. Peering out the window of your bus, you will notice very little human presence in the arid landscape — only a couple of mining villages and military outposts. You may have to change buses at Bouarfa, a small town with a couple of hotels if you need to rest.

Figuig is a medieval desert town situated in the largest date palm oasis in Morocco, with over 200,000 trees. The town is composed of several ksour (fortified villages), each within its own palm oasis and enclosed by walls. For centuries the ksour were fiercely independent, fighting each other over limited water and family feuds. The prettiest is El Maiz. For the best panoramic view, climb to the platform above the Zenaga ksar, where you can see the full sweep of the oasis against the surrounding mountains. In the Ksar Loudaghir, an old minaret dating back seven centuries still stands.

Until 1960, Figuig had a large Jewish population. Today the people are predominantly Berber. The Moroccan-Algerian border is nearby but has been closed for years.

The area is good for long hikes through desert and oasis landscapes. Accommodation and transport are minimal — one hotel, one bus a day — but that is part of the appeal. Figuig gives you a genuine feel of a remote desert border town, far from the tourist trail.

Guide

Getting There

Figuig is one of the most isolated towns in Morocco, and reaching it requires commitment. The most practical approach is by bus from Er-Rachidia, a journey of around ten hours through spectacular desert and mountain scenery. One bus per day makes this run; you may need to change at Bouarfa, which has a hotel if an overnight stop becomes necessary.

From Oujda in the north, there is occasional shared transport via Bouarfa; check locally for current schedules. There is no airport and no train. Driving your own vehicle from Er-Rachidia is the most flexible option and allows stops in the extraordinary landscape en route — the red mountains and empty hammada are worth taking slowly. Do not attempt the journey without adequate fuel and water.

Guide

Things to Do

Figuig is a place to slow down. The pleasures are the ksour — fortified old quarters — the palm oasis, and hiking through the desert landscape. There are no museums, no organised tours, and almost no tourist infrastructure. That is precisely why travellers who make the long journey here find it so rewarding.

Guide

When to Go

October to April is the most pleasant time to visit. Spring and autumn bring warm days (20–30°C) and cool nights. Winter can be cold after dark — frost is not unknown in January — but days are sunny and clear. The date harvest in late October is a particularly good time, when the palm gardens are at their most active.

Summer (June to August) is extremely hot, with temperatures regularly exceeding 40°C. It is not impossible to visit, but the heat confines activity to early morning and evening, and the oasis itself provides welcome shade. The only bus of the day from Bouarfa typically arrives in the early afternoon, which is the worst possible time to arrive in summer.