Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is one of Morocco's holiest towns, draped across two green hills overlooking the Roman ruins of Volubilis. It is named after Moulay Idriss I, founder of the first Moroccan dynasty, whose tomb draws a constant stream of pilgrims. Until 2005 non-Muslims were not permitted to stay overnight, and the town still feels more like a place of devotion than of tourism — which is exactly why it is worth visiting.
The whitewashed houses climb steeply from a central valley, and the views from the upper terraces — particularly the Terrasse Sidi Abdallah El Hajjam above the Khiber quarter — sweep across the Zerhoun mountains and the fertile plains below. The zaouia at the heart of the town, rebuilt in the late 17th century under Moulay Ismail, is off-limits to non-Muslims, but you can peer into its entrance and watch the faithful come and go.
A large moussem (pilgrimage festival) takes place every September, filling the narrow streets with music, food stalls and crowds. Volubilis is a short walk downhill, and Meknes is about 30 kilometres to the south. Accommodation is limited but growing — a handful of guesthouses now offer rooms with rooftop terraces overlooking the shrine.