Lagos nightlife is what the city is really about. Most of it happens on Victoria Island and in Lekki, with the live-music heart still in Ikeja around the New Afrika Shrine. Open-air bars like Bottles on VI run late and loud; Jazzhole in Ikoyi is the more civilised, jazz- and book-loving counterpart. Cafes are concentrated on VI and Ikoyi — Cafe Neo for coffee, Terra Kulture for an espresso between gallery and theatre, and a dozen bakeries scattered through the leafy streets. Ask the day before you arrive where the party is; the venues change quickly.