Sightseeing is not why you come to Lagos. Most travellers end up doing a mix: a half-day at the Nigerian National Museum on Lagos Island, a wander through Freedom Park (the former colonial prison now a cultural centre), a serious look at contemporary Nigerian art at the Nike Art Gallery, a pilgrimage to the Kalakuta Republic Museum where Fela Kuti lived and died, a ferry out to Tarkwa Bay, or a lazy afternoon at the Lekki Conservation Centre canopy walk. The harder, more rewarding option is to take a guided walk through Lagos Island — markets, mosques, the Marina — or a respectful guided visit to the lagoon-side community at Makoko. And then they spend the evenings on what Lagos really does, which is live music, clubs, and food. Ask where the night is happening; it changes.