Iringa is a provincial capital in the Tanzanian Southern Highlands, set on a dramatic escarpment at 1,600 metres. The altitude keeps it cooler than most of Tanzania, the scenery is striking, and the town itself is relaxed and largely tourist-free — a rare thing in this part of the world.
What makes Iringa worth a stop is its position as a gateway to three of southern Tanzania's highlights: Ruaha National Park, one of Tanzania's largest and least crowded reserves; Udzungwa Mountains National Park, a biodiversity hotspot of rainforest and waterfalls; and the Isimila Stone Age site, where erosion has exposed stone tools and fossils from 60,000 years ago in an otherworldly landscape of eroded pillars. Closer to town is Kalenga, the seat of Chief Mkwawa, the Hehe leader who held off the Germans for seven years.
In town, the market is one of the best in Tanzania — pick up the distinctive Iringa baskets woven from sisal and palm leaf. Neema Crafts, a workshop and cafe employing more than 60 disabled people, is genuinely not to be missed: you can tour the workshops (paper made from elephant dung, handwoven textiles, recycled-glass beadwork) and then eat very well in the gallery cafe. The climb up Gangilonga Rock rewards you with views over the escarpment; go in a group rather than alone.