Chishui
©
Chishui

Chishui

Northern Guizhou landscape of bamboo, red Danxia sandstone cliffs, river gorges, and waterfalls.

Chishui occupies the far north of Guizhou where the province meets Sichuan, at a lower elevation than most of the plateau — subtropical rather than temperate, and wet enough to support bamboo on a scale that turns the landscape green in a way that the limestone karst country further south doesn't. The city administers a UNESCO World Heritage landscape, the Chishui component of the China Danxia designation, which covers around 27,000 hectares of red sandstone formations cut through by river gorges and waterfall systems.

The Danxia geology here is the southern China variant: red Cretaceous sandstone and conglomerate, weathered and eroded into steep cliffs, rounded knobs, and river canyons over millions of years of tectonic uplift. The red rock against the bamboo forest — the Zhuyehai Bamboo Sea covers 87,000 hectares of the surrounding hills — produces a colour combination that doesn't quite fit the usual template of Chinese landscapes. The Sidonggou scenic area concentrates the most accessible waterfall systems, where the Danxia cliff faces are interrupted by cascades coming down from the plateau above. The longest drop in the area falls over 70 metres.

The Chishui River itself is historically significant: the Battle of Chishui in early 1935 was part of the Long March maneuver that the Communists executed in this region before the Zunyi Conference (see /asia/china/guizhou/zunyi), crossing the river four times in six weeks to confuse and exhaust the pursuing Nationalist forces. The battle demonstrated the mobile guerrilla strategy that Mao had just been empowered to implement, and the river valley is dotted with commemorative markers for visitors interested in that history.

Chishui is most easily reached from Zunyi (about 200 kilometres to the south) or from Luzhou in Sichuan to the north. The journey from Guiyang takes about four to five hours by road, which keeps the area less visited than more accessible parts of the province. The bamboo forest walks and Danxia viewpoints require at least two days to cover properly.

Guide

Getting There

Chishui is in a corner of Guizhou that has no high-speed rail — getting here takes longer than most comparable distances in China. From Zunyi (200 kilometres south), buses run in about four hours. From Guiyang, the journey is four to five hours by expressway. From Luzhou in Sichuan to the north, it is about two hours.

The difficulty of getting here is precisely why the area has remained less visited than more accessible parts of Guizhou. There are direct buses from Guiyang's main bus station, and several operators run overnight coaches that arrive in the early morning. The last stretch of road from the expressway into the city runs through the bamboo forest and the Danxia landscape — the journey itself begins to pay off before you arrive.