McLeod Ganj is a hill town above Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh, and since 1960 the home of the Tibetan government-in-exile and the Dalai Lama. The result is something quite unusual: a small Indian mountain town with a large Tibetan refugee community, Buddhist temples, Tibetan restaurants, and a steady stream of pilgrims, volunteers, and travellers drawn by the spiritual atmosphere and the mountains above.
The Tsuglagkhang Temple complex is the centre of Tibetan religious life here. It includes the residence of the Dalai Lama, the Tibet Museum documenting the Chinese occupation, and a large meditation hall where public teachings are sometimes held. The Library of Tibetan Works and Archives holds an important collection of manuscripts and cultural objects. The town has developed a full roster of meditation courses, yoga retreats, and language schools — some are serious, many are aimed at the backpacker market, so it's worth choosing carefully.
The Dhauladhar Range rises immediately behind the town, offering accessible trekking from gentle ridge walks to serious multi-day routes. The trail to Triund, a meadow at around 2,800 metres with spectacular views back over the Kangra Valley, is the most popular day hike. Snow still lies on the peaks above even in summer. McLeod Ganj is at its best in spring and autumn; monsoon brings heavy rains and some landslides, and winter is cold.