Kochi, also known as Cochin, is Kerala's most cosmopolitan city and a fascinating place to walk around. The old Fort Kochi area has a distinctly European feel, shaped by centuries of Portuguese, Dutch and British rule, each of whom left buildings, churches and cultural footprints that still define the neighbourhood.
The iconic Chinese fishing nets along the waterfront are the city's most photographed sight, best seen at dawn when they are still being worked. There is much more besides: the Church of Saint Francis — the oldest European church in India and the original burial site of Vasco da Gama — the Mattancherry Palace with its extraordinary Hindu murals, and the Paradesi Synagogue in the old Jewish quarter with its hand-painted Chinese floor tiles. Fort Kochi is compact enough to explore on foot in a day.
Kochi is also a good base for backwater excursions. The waterways around the city are narrower than those further south near Alleppey, so you get closer to village life and paddy fields. Evening Kathakali performances are another Kochi staple — the elaborate makeup process alone is worth watching.
The city has a growing arts scene, with the Kochi-Muziris Biennale (held every two years from December to March) turning Fort Kochi into one of Asia's most important contemporary art events. The food is excellent, with a mix of Kerala seafood, Syrian Christian cooking and Kashi Art Cafe, which draws visitors as much for its chocolate cake as for its exhibitions.