Udaipur eats Rajasthani — dal baati churma (lentils with baked wheat balls and crumbled sweet), gatte ki sabzi (gram-flour dumplings in curry), laal maas (mutton in a fierce red chilli gravy, the Mewar speciality), and the local thali that lets you taste a bit of everything. The old city has the highest concentration of restaurants in Rajasthan — most with rooftops, most with views of the lake. The food at many of them is mediocre; we have picked out the ones that actually deliver.