Taman Lampion — the Lantern Garden — is a waterfront park on the south bank of the Mahakam that becomes the city's main evening gathering place. Hundreds of coloured lanterns are illuminated after dark, and the park fills with families, food vendors, and couples. It is unabashedly local and unpretentious, which is exactly its appeal.
The views across the Mahakam from the park's edge are good, taking in the Islamic Centre's domes and minarets on the far bank and the constant traffic of river boats. Food stalls along the park perimeter sell grilled corn, pisang goreng (fried banana), cold drinks, and local snacks. This is where Samarinda relaxes in the evenings, and spending a couple of hours here gives you a better feel for daily life than any tourist site.