Tanjung Pinang is the capital of the Riau Islands province and the main town on Bintan's southern coast. It is a working port, not a resort -- traders from Jakarta, Medan, and Palembang pass through constantly, and the waterfront hums with fishing boats, ferries, and cargo vessels.
The old part of town is built on stilts over the water, a maze of wooden walkways and houses that feels like stepping back a century. Inland, the streets are packed with markets, Padang-style restaurants, and the kind of everyday Indonesian bustle that the northern resort strip deliberately keeps at arm's length.
Most visitors come through on the ferry from Singapore, two hours away. Tanjung Pinang makes a good base for exploring the surrounding islands, especially Penyengat with its historic mosques and royal tombs, and the quiet beaches along Bintan's east coast — Trikora Beach is the most accessible and well worth the 50-kilometre drive.