Nineveh

The ruins of ancient Nineveh occupy a wide tell on the east bank of the Tigris, directly opposite modern Mosul. Nineveh was the largest city in the world at its peak in the seventh century BC, capital of the Assyrian Empire under kings including Sennacherib and Ashurbanipal, and its libraries held thousands of cuneiform clay tablets — including the oldest written version of the flood myth that preceded the biblical account by more than a thousand years.

The site is accessible from the eastern side of Mosul. The reconstructed Nergal Gate, with its replica lamassu, stands at the northern end of the ruins, and you can walk portions of the ancient city walls. The inner city (Tell Kuyunjik) contains the palace mounds, and excavations have been ongoing since the 19th century. ISIS damaged several monuments here, and the Mosul Museum, which held many of the recovered objects, is reopening gradually as its collection is restored and some pieces are returned from international institutions that had them on loan.

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The winged bull colossi — lamassu — that once flanked the Gate of Nergal and other entrances to Nineveh were among the most recognisable sculptures of the ancient world: human-headed, eagle-winged, five-legged (so they appeared to be walking when viewed from the side). ISIS filmed the destruction of several inside the Mosul Museum in 2015 and smashed the stone lamassu at the Nergal Gate with sledgehammers. Some pieces have since been recovered; others are gone forever.

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