Tzfat (Safed) sits high in the mountains of the Upper Galilee, at around 900 meters — cool in summer, occasionally snowy in winter. It has been one of the four holy cities of Judaism for centuries and was the center of Jewish mysticism (Kabbalah) in the 16th century, when Rabbi Joseph Karo compiled the Shulchan Aruch here and the mystic Isaac Luria developed Kabbalistic doctrine that spread across the Jewish world.
The old city divides into two distinct zones. The upper religious quarter — steeply terraced stone lanes, active yeshivot, and the ancient synagogues — is centred on the Ari Ashkenazi Synagogue and the Abuhav Synagogue, both still functioning congregations. Below the dividing park, the Artists' Quarter fills equally old stone buildings with galleries and studios, established in the 1950s — a more secular atmosphere, but using the same blue-painted arches and the same mountain light.
Walking around Tzfat is the main activity — the streets are steep, atmospheric, and rewarding. The Old Jewish Cemetery on the slope below town holds the graves of the great Kabbalists, including Isaac Luria himself. The Tzfat Citadel at the summit gives the best panoramic views over the Galilee, extending on clear days to the Sea of Galilee and Mount Hermon. In summer the town fills with visitors; weekday mornings off-season are peaceful.
Tzfat is 35 km from Tiberias and about 40 km from Acre. Public buses connect to both.