Toshodai-ji

Toshodai-ji was founded in 759 by the Chinese Buddhist monk Ganjin (Jianzhen), who had been invited to Japan specifically to reform Buddhist ordination practices. The main hall — the Kondo — is a masterpiece of Nara period architecture: wide, low, and massively timbered, with a colonnade of deeply fluted pillars across its facade. Inside, three large bronze and lacquer Buddhas fill the space.

The temple is less visited than Todai-ji and Kasuga, which means a quieter and more contemplative experience. The mossy garden behind the Kondo is particularly beautiful in summer when the irises bloom. Toshodai-ji is a short walk from Yakushi-ji, another important Nara period temple, and the two are typically visited together.

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A story
Ganjin — the Chinese monk who founded Toshodai-ji in 759 — made five failed attempts to reach Japan before succeeding on his sixth voyage, by which time he was blind from an eye infection contracted during his years of travel. Despite his blindness he founded the temple, trained monks in proper ordination procedures, and is said to have sculpted his own portrait from memory. The lacquer portrait in the Miedo Hall is the oldest dry-lacquer portrait sculpture in Japan.

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