Phonsavan is a small, chilly town on the Xieng Khouang Plateau, rebuilt after the original provincial capital (Muang Khoun) was destroyed by bombing during the Vietnam War. The town itself is unremarkable, but it is the base for visiting the mysterious Plain of Jars — one of Southeast Asia's most enigmatic archaeological sites.
Hundreds of enormous stone jars, some over two metres tall and weighing several tonnes, are scattered across the grassy plateau. Nobody knows with certainty why they were made. Theories range from burial urns to rice wine fermentation vessels. Several jar sites are open to visitors; Site 1 is the largest and most accessible, while Site 2 and Site 3 are more atmospheric and less visited.
The area was one of the most heavily bombed places on earth during the American secret war in Laos. Bomb craters pockmark the landscape, and UXO clearance teams still work the area. The MAG (Mines Advisory Group) visitor centre in town explains the ongoing impact. Stick strictly to marked paths at the jar sites.
Visits to Hmong and other ethnic minority villages can be arranged from Phonsavan. The town gets cold at night, particularly from November to February — bring warm clothes.