Seza is the Armenian table of choice in Beirut. The Bourj Hammoud neighbourhood is the traditional home of the city's Armenian community, but at Seza — set in a restored Mar Mikhael building — the cooking gets the showcase it deserves. Mante (tiny meat dumplings under garlicky yoghurt), su boregi, manti, and grilled lamb dominate the menu.
The atmosphere is warm and family-run; the prices are reasonable for the quality. Book ahead, particularly at weekends.