Achrafieh climbs the hills east of downtown and is the historically Christian half of Beirut — a network of leafy streets, surviving Ottoman mansions, and upscale boutiques. The neighbourhood escaped the worst of the 2020 blast and retains more of pre-war Beirut's character than almost anywhere else in the city.
Sursock Street and the lanes around it are the most rewarding walk: 19th-century palaces (including the Sursock Museum), small art galleries, and restaurants set in restored old houses. The ABC Mall and the Saifi-end of Sodeco Street anchor the more commercial side. Allow a long afternoon to wander.