The Corniche

The Corniche is Beirut's seafront promenade, running for about 4.5 kilometres from Ain el Mreisseh in the east to the Pigeon Rocks at Raouche. In a city where most public space is fenced off, this open stretch of palm-lined pavement is where every social class actually meets.

Come at sunset. Joggers pound past men fishing with hand-lines, women smoking nargileh on benches, kids on bikes, and entire families promenading in their best clothes. Stop for a coffee or fresh juice from one of the kerb-side carts. Continue west along the cliffs and the Pigeon Rocks emerge from the sea below.

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The Corniche is the most democratic stretch of Beirut: bankers jog past Hezbollah supporters past Syrian migrant labourers past Lycra-clad cyclists, with the sea on one side and the city on the other.

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