Bago is one of those places most travellers pass through on their way to the Golden Rock pagoda at Kyaiktiyo, but if you slow down, this ancient Mon capital rewards a full day of exploring. Founded in 573 AD by the Mon brothers Thamala and Wimala, Bago served as a royal capital for centuries before King Alaungpaya destroyed it in 1757. The city never fully recovered its former grandeur, but the temples and monasteries that remain are some of the finest in Myanmar.
The star attraction in town is the enormous Shwemawdaw Pagoda, taller even than Yangon's Shwedagon. Nearby you will find a colossal reclining Buddha and the atmospheric Four Figures Pagoda with its beautifully carved Buddhas facing the four cardinal directions. The Kha Khat Wain Kyaung monastery, the second largest in the country, is a remarkable sight at lunchtime when around a thousand monks line up for their midday meal — visitors are welcome to watch and even join them.
Bago is a two-hour drive from Yangon, or you can take the train for a few dollars. The town sees relatively few tourists, and the pace is unhurried. A local rickshaw driver named Manny has become something of a legend among travellers — do not worry about finding him, he will find you at the bus or train station. For a few dollars he will pedal you around all the major sights, including a stop at a longyi weaving workshop.