Pyay (also known as Prome or Pyi) sits on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, roughly halfway between Yangon and Bagan. It is an important trading centre between Lower and Upper Myanmar, and a crossing point to the Rakhine Yoma and the coast at Thandwe.
The main draw is the ancient Pyu city of Sri Ksetra (Thayekhittaya), a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 8 km east of town. Sri Ksetra served as the Pyu capital until the 8th century and was finally destroyed by King Anawratha of Bagan in 1057. The site is vast and only partly excavated — exploring the scattered ruins, stupas, and city walls by hired bicycle or car feels genuinely adventurous. A small museum sits at the entrance, and the cylindrical Bawbawgyi Pagoda on the south edge of the zone is one of the oldest stupas in Myanmar.
Back in town, the Shwesandaw Pagoda crowns a hilltop overlooking the river. The views from the terrace at sunset, with the Ayeyarwady curving below and the plains stretching toward the hills, are worth the climb on their own. The giant seated Buddha at Sehtatgyi and the riverside Aung Chan Tha fill out a half-day walk, and the cliff carvings of Akauk Taung downstream are an unusual half-day excursion by boat.
Pyay works well as a stopover on the overland route between Yangon and Bagan. Buses run in both directions, and the Yangon train also stops here. The town is compact enough to explore on foot, and the pace of life is unhurried — a welcome contrast to Myanmar's busier tourist stops.