Hiranya Varna Mahavihar (Golden Temple)

The Golden Temple — officially Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, or Kwa Bahal — is a working Buddhist monastery a few minutes' walk north of Durbar Square. Its three-storey gilded facade is smothered in intricate metalwork: dragons, elephants, deities, and bodhisattvas cast in copper and gold. The inner courtyard holds a small silver and gold shrine to Shakyamuni Buddha. Shoes and leather must be left at the gate. A small donation is requested on entry and goes directly to the monastery's upkeep.

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The monastery follows a strict rotation system: every year a different family from the Shakya caste sends a young son to live here as a temporary priest, tending the main shrine and ringing the bells. The boy, never older than about twelve, must be pre-pubescent — the role ends when he reaches adolescence. This practice, which dates back centuries, is still observed today.

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